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Dench Bakers

Posted in Reviews by F N Soren
Feb 04 2009
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Dench Bakers
109 Scotchmer St
North Fitzroy
Ph 9486 3554

I’ve lobbed here with two companions, so it’s past the wall and into the kitchen and a seat for three at a bench of polished and painted wood in colours of red, blue white and yellow.

It’s early afternoon at this clearly popular place and many products have sold out—no escargots, fruit buns or croissants. So I settle for a small citrus tart of exquisite quality—rich, melting, syrupy. My l.b. is excellent.

Staff are polite, intelligent, courteous. Our glasses of water are filled as required. No fuss. There’s plenty of staff moving about the place. Music is soft.

Cooked breakfasts include poached/fried eggs on organic sourdough, cinnamon french toast and parsley, or scrambled eggs on brioche with oven roasted tomato. Patrons in for lunch are referred to the specials board—chef’s salad, tart of the day, egg and bacon pie with salad. There’s even take-home meals including dips and soups.

It strikes me that the ready, natural filling of the glasses is a sign: stay here, you don’t need to buy more, we like your company …

I’m putting Derrida aside for the moment and reading Carver. Beat this for an opener: ‘My marriage had just fallen apart. I couldn’t find a job. I had another girl. But she wasn’t in town. So I was at a bar …’

I ask the waitress if she’s heard of Raymond Carver. She hasn’t. I write Carver’s name on a slip of paper and make to give it to the waitress when we leave. But she’s on the ball—she shows me ‘Raymond Carver’ written on a serviette.

Tagged as: North Fitzroy
Comments
  • zapata:

    Coffee at Dench is not bad. You should try The East Brunswick Project in Lygon street (not far away from Each Peach). When Brunswick cafe are pretty much ‘supremed’, single origins or blend coffee at the east brunswick offers something new and exciting.

    Reply February 25, 2009 at 12:13 pm
    • Lawrence:

      Yes, I’ve visited the East Brunswick project a number of times and have a review ‘on the go’. Agreed, the coffee there is tops.

      Reply February 25, 2009 at 4:38 pm
  • Tommy:

    Dench coffee is excellent, no pretentiousness here.

    Reply March 20, 2009 at 2:44 pm
  • shakkei:

    coffee at dench is not good and varies too often, baristas are not on the ball, waitstaff are frequently not interested in the client except for carlos who is the linchpin, without him front of house would not survive…….north island next door is far superior for coffee and personalised service

    Reply June 25, 2009 at 11:49 pm
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