Chalton is a small township on the Calder Highway, in the north-eastern Wimmera. People passing though should plan a stop at this smart establishment. On entering, one is greeted with solid square tables and long-wearing blue carpet flecked in red and yellow. The colour scheme throughout is blue and cream and on hot summer days cavernous space takes on a welcoming, ever alluring prospect.

Cakes, sandwiches and focaccias feature on the menu and a highlight for us was the light fluffy scones, jam and cream. Coffee is workmanlike and a slight impost is charged for a double shot. Breakfast lasts till 10 a.m., lunch till 3. Cakes and slices are placed in little stands on the counter. All Melbourne daily papers are available for reading, a rare treat in the country. Against the exposed brick wall, one finds a stand of gourmet — sauces, Murray salt, dukkah. Big wide windows give a view across the road to the still-operating Rex Theatre.

A few chairs and tables occupy space on the pavement. Staff are restrained, friendly, professional. There is a feeling this place is valued by the locals, and on our last visit the air was filled with a mixture of American and Australian accents. Eight farming types gathered around a table, deep in discussion. Ah, the ever-varying happenings in the Victorian cafe scene.

And dear reader, as a coda, hearken to these lines of the great incomparable Nietzsche — ‘He who has come only in part to a freedom of reason cannot feel on earth otherwise than as a wanderer — though not as a traveller towards a final goal, for this does not exist. But he does want to observe, and keep his eyes open for everything that actually occurs in the world; therefore he must not attach his heart too firmly to any individual thing; there must be something wandering within him, which takes its joy in change and transitoriness.’