Casting a leftwards glance through the vertical window, the lurid colours of WIMMERA BOLTS AND FASTENERS meet my gaze. A shit-heavy B-double lumbers past the roundabout and heads down Natimuk Road. But inside the cafe, at my blackpainted table, I listen to the tinkle of plates and cutlery being delivered up to the dishwasher. It’s 2 p.m. The lunch crowd have disappeared. Unlike Melbourne, this wonderful country establishment is peopled at regular times.

There is a tiled front section and a few tables on the pavement outside the building. On the wall, a mirror framed in the form of a pineapple. From the tiled area, up a step, is the small carpeted inner sanctum, set up with two larger tables, one table for four and two tables for two. On the shelves sit books of enticing titles: Frank Lloyd Wright: Prairie Houses; James Martin Desserts; Italian Country Living; Morocco by Philippe Saharoff and Francesca Torre. Copies of The Age, Herald Sun and The Wimmera Mail Times are always available.

Greg, (the owner along with his wife Judith) makes Fiery Bengal Chutney, Dukkah, Moroccan Style Dressing and other tasty bits and pieces. These products too grace the shelves and benches.

Some of the lunch offerings today include pumpkin soup and roll ($7.50); Shepherds Pie with salad ($10.50); Spinach, leek & fetta tart ($9.50); Madras Lamb Curry ($14.50); and vegetarian quiche and salad ($12.50). Pieces of hedgehog (a country staple) and totally wicked big thick choc-topped Anzacs are $3.00. All food is made on the premises or at home, and is fresh, tasty and attractively presented.

Excellent Monte coffee is served, and tea comes in elegant china cups.

And if you call in, tell ’em where you found ’em. They’ll appreciate it.

It’s 1.00 p.m. This cafe is very busy. Two rooms: a main one to the left as you walk in — about ten tables, and the main entry, a couple of tables here. We decide to sit in the quieter side, (main entry) and this too is where you order. Options are wide. Focaccia, falafel, sandwiches, rolls, pies and quiches. I see a nice looking quiche go out with a stack of golden chips on the side. I order a focaccia with chicken schnitzel, lettuce and lemon juice. And a long black for coffee.

There’s no music on and the cafe instead is full of chatter and working sounds, dishes, cups and saucers moving about. I find the lack of music a fresh change. The folk here seem to be those getting away from work for lunch and those who don’t have to work, but are here for lunch anyway. Tables are neat, wooden and study, as are the chairs. You order and pay at the counter, and are handed metal stalk with a table number perched on top. Service is quick and friendly.

The food is neatly presented and tasty. The focaccia is fresh, the schnitzel not to big, and it has a herby coating — quality is the key. The long black is hot and fairly strong. It hasn’t got the flavour and strength it could have, but it does fairly well.